having not visited egypt for years i was really taken aback when i returned in 06 or so to a nation (or 1/2 of one) that had since seemingly adopted the hijab wholesale.

a few weekends ago i ventured out into nocturnal cairo. it was a thursday night and by 8am friday morning i found myself buying champagne bottles for most of ladies on the neighboring tables at the ramses club on the infamously seedy haram (pyramids) rd. sara sitting on our left was one of the few who drank any of it and it seemed we were getting along famously. when the club shut shop soon after we walked out into the way too bright morning. sara dressed as sexily as the other women in the club fished out a pink tarha (hijab) from her handbag, promptly covered up and walked into the distance joining the rest of giza’s early risers. a block later she hailed a cab and joined the hijabbed majority that i will never look at as a monolithic whole again.

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